- Circuit breaker off.
- Power from utility off.
- Incorrect input power.
- Interface cable loose/broken.
- Control/Display board failure.
- Input power wrong.
- Display/Control board failure.
- Unit in REMOTE or AUTO mode, the corresponding light on front panel will be lit.
- Customer interlocks open, or defeat connector missing.
- Stalled bottles detected, or defeat connector missing.
- Loose connections.
- Failed Inverter: Ohm / Replace Inverter (see manual page 20)
- Sealing head failure.
- Output Capacitor failure. To ohm check capacitors disconnect output cables.
- Power/Connector board failure.
- Display/Control board failure.
- Unit has over current.
- Sealing head failed.
- Output Capacitor failure. To ohm check capacitors disconnect output cables.
- Display/Control board failure.
- Failed Inverter: Ohm / Replace Inverter (see manual)
- Insure the cooling fans are clean and functioning properly.
- Insure the ambient temperature is not over 40°C (104°F)
- Line voltage varies.
- Overload conditions, unit coupling with metal in vicinity
- Loose connections on output.
- Control/Display board failure.
- Interface cable loose/broken.
- Unit in AUTO mode, the corresponding light on front panel will be lit.
- Interface cable loose/broken.
- Control/Display board failure.
- Rectifier block failure.
- Inverter failure.
- Circuit breaker failure.
- Power board failure.
As long as the 208 V is fairly steady and does not drop any lower, the unit will not be harmed. If you are running close to the upper limit of the unit's range, you may not see as high of a seal rate as a 240 V line would.
All new Super Seals™ have adjustable LSI (Loss of Seal Indicator) as a standard feature. When the power is below this setting, the run light will go out and a set of contacts will change states. To set the LSI, set the power level to your desired LSI level, and push the down arrow while holding the stop button. Then, the LSI will be set and you are ready to run.
You have the unit in "Auto" mode without an external command coming in. Either switch the unit back to "Manual" mode, or double-check the signal being supplied to the auto circuit.
There are two jumper plugs that should be connected to the back of the unit. One in the port labeled "Stalled Bottle Sensor" and the other for "Remote Start/Interlocks." If these are not in place, the meter will read '0.' If a stalled bottle sensor is being used, make that the sensor is plugged in and that it is not being blocked as you press start.
Once you know the unit works in "Local" mode, disconnect the jumper plug from the back connection and replace it with the remote start/interlock cable supplied with the unit. The black and red wires are the interlock connections, which must be either tied together or connected across your interlocks. The green and white wires will start the unit when the connection is shorted and stop it when they are open.
The first time you start the unit after the breaker is turned on, you need to press the start button once. This "primes" the system for operation.
The stalled bottle detector is connected into the interlock circuitry of the unit. If any interlock is broken, the unit will shut down and stay off until an operator "primes" the system again. This allows any bottle jams to be cleared without the potential safety hazard of the unit restarting while someone is working under it.
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